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Customized clothing and samples with higher requirements or special body type are tailored. Various cutting data were measured according to the body shape or sample of the wearing object. The main measuring parts of the jacket are the length of the jacket.
Chest, shoulder width, sleeve length, collar. The waist circumference, hip circumference, breast height, breast distance, front and back waist length should also be measured. The main measuring parts of trousers are trousers length, waist circumference, hip circumference and crotch length.
There are five main ways to tailor a piece.
According to the series of garment sizes, the model is made for multi-layer cutting. It is the main cutting form in garment industry. The main steps are: (1) material inspection. It mainly includes physical and chemical inspection of the shrinkage, color fastness and heat resistance of clothing, inspection of defects, width measurement, weft tilt finishing and thermal pre-shrinkage. (2) Formulating specifications and models. According to clothing style, specifications, clothing properties and sewing process requirements, cardboard is used to make sample patterns for pattern making, and specification matching is formulated. (3) Layout. In order to maximize the utilization rate of clothes, clothes samples are arranged on clothes or on paper with the same width as clothes.
The process of separating material into various forms of garments. There are batch cut
(also known as industrial cutting) and single piece cutting.
(4) Drawing. According to the format determined by the layout, the outline and mark of the garment piece are drawn according to the pattern. Large batches of products usually use leak pattern (drilling the discharge line into a pattern of equidistant continuous pinholes) to replace the marking with brushing sample (brushing powder into the hole to make it leak out). In the 1960s, a computer aided design system (CAD) for garment design emerged, which is a new technology for drawing layout drawings according to real samples or proportions.
Customized clothing and samples with higher requirements or special body type are tailored. Various cutting data were measured according to the body shape or sample of the wearing object. The main measuring parts of jacket are length, chest circumference, shoulder width, sleeve length and collar circumference. The waist circumference, hip circumference, breast height, breast distance, front and back waist length should also be measured. The main measuring parts of trousers are trousers length, waist circumference, hip circumference and crotch length. There are five main ways to tailor a piece.
(1) Proportional method: chest or buttock method. The jacket is based on the chest circumference of the human body, and the jacket is based on the hip circumference of the human body. The dimensions of other parts are distributed proportionally according to the chest circumference or hip circumference.
(2) Prototype method: also known as basic type method. According to the measurement of human body size as a benchmark, the prototype of die-type clothing piece is drawn, and then on the basis of the prototype, local adjustments are made according to the style characteristics, and then tailored.
(3) Dimension method: Use words or graphics to mark all the data needed for cutting parts, and then cut according to the size indicated.
(4) Short-inch method: Measure all parts of the human body as far as possible, and then tailor them according to the data obtained.
Stereo method: directly shaping clothing style on human body model or human body, and making various marks, is the method of integrating design, shape and cutting. Before sewing, it needs to be restored to a flat surface, corrected or reproduced as a template. It is often used to cut some women's fashions with strong stereoscopic sense, high difficulty in modeling, soft clothing and draping characteristics.
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